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Tourist-friendly café, bar and gay library Named after Berlin gospel/pop/torch-singing transvestite/activist Melitta Sundström (Thomas Gerards, 1964-93) and formerly a haven for cross-dressers, this high-ceilinged casual spot is now something of a dinosaur, its displayed magazines, newspapers, old books and board games a reminder of hippy-inspired cafés of yesteryear. A dark, faded romantic charm gives it a lovely singularity, and there's even an art exhibition space (of limited appeal) and a bo
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