The Castro

The Castro is where gay San Francisco started and it is still the most concentrated gay neighbourhood in the city. The rainbow crosswalks, the Twin Peaks bar with its plate-glass windows (one of the first gay bars in the country to have visible street frontage, back in 1972), the Human Rights Campaign Action Center, the Names Project quilt archives nearby. The history is tangible.

But the Castro has changed. It is expensive, quieter than it used to be, and more residential than it was twenty years ago. The bars are fewer. The crowds are smaller on a random Tuesday than they would have been in the 1980s or 1990s. Some long-running venues have closed. What replaced them in many cases is not a bar but a yoga studio or an upscale restaurant.

None of that makes the Castro not worth going to. It is still a genuine gay neighbourhood with a real community. There are good bars, good coffee, good food. The Castro Theatre hosts events and film festivals. Pride is centred here. It just is not the frenetic scene it once was, and visitors who arrive expecting 1980s energy will find something quieter and more comfortable.

SoMa

South of Market is where the leather and circuit scene lives. The stretch of Folsom Street between 7th and 12th Streets has bars that have been running for decades. The Eagle on 12th Street, the Powerhouse on 18th, the bars along Harrison and Folsom. This is where you go if you want something heavier than Castro: later, darker, more fetish-oriented.

SoMa is also where the Folsom Street Fair happens every September. It is the largest leather and fetish event in the world, attracting hundreds of thousands of people to several blocks of Folsom Street. If you are going to be in San Francisco in late September, it is worth building your trip around.

The SoMa bars tend to fill Thursday through Saturday. Some run bear nights, leather nights, or circuit-style events. Check each venue's social media for current schedules because these change regularly.

Polk Street

Polk Street has an older, quieter gay scene. A few bars have been there for decades. It is less tourist-oriented than the Castro and less intense than SoMa. The crowd is generally older and more local. Worth knowing about if you want a less theatrical evening.

Bars

    • Balançoire — This French restaurant & club offers DJs, burlesque, live music, late-night eats & weekend brunch.
    • Bill Graham Civic Auditorium — The Bill Graham Civic Auditorium is a multi-purpose arena in San Francisco, California, currently named after promoter Bill Graham. The arena holds 7,000 people and was built in 1915 as part of the Panama–Pacific International Exposition.
    • Boyfriends — Boyfriends are gone. All got AIDS.
    • Brick & Mortar Music Hall — Talent ranges from bluegrass to hip-hop at this modest-sized music venue near the freeway.
    • Castro Theatre — The Castro Theatre is a popular San Francisco movie palace which became San Francisco Historic Landmark #100 in September 1976.
    • Cat Club SF — Large SoMa club with exposed-brick walls & theme nights ranging from All '80s to Bondage A Go-Go.
    • Center for New Music — Multipurpose venue offering curated musical performances, plus music-related exhibits & workshops
    • City Nights — To get in for half-off this Saturday ($10), bring your student ID and show up before 10PM! Or, if you don't have a student ID, text the word 'CITYNIGHTS' (without quotes) to 95577 for the same discount. (..and for a chance to win two free tickets - just tag a friend in the comment section below..) **This Saturday is All Nighter: Student Night. On top of our two dance floors and two DJs - we'll have frat contests, complimentary pizza and Redbull, cash prizes, a playable Xbox ONE projected over
    • Cobb's Comedy Club — Cobb's Comedy Club is a stand-up comedy venue in San Francisco's North Beach neighborhood. It was founded in 1982 and has had many top comedians on its stage.
    • Dark Garden Unique Corsetry — Bright funky shop with high ceilings selling custom & off-the-rack corsets, dresses & wedding gowns
    • DNA Lounge — DNA Lounge is a late-night, all ages nightclub in the SoMa district of San Francisco owned by Jamie Zawinski, a former Netscape programmer and open-source software hacker.
    • El Rio — A Mission standby since 1978, this local bar with an expansive patio draws a diverse crow

    For the full breakdown, see the San Francisco gay bars guide.

    Saunas

    San Francisco's sauna scene has contracted over the years. What remains includes some of the oldest gay bathhouses in the United States. The city's history with the bathhouse scene is complicated, particularly around the AIDS crisis and the closures of the 1980s. What is operating now is a fraction of what existed then.

    • Eros — ho says weekdays have to be boring? There’s always something going on at the Eros gay sauna in the heart of San Francisco. Discover the dry sauna, steam room, and open showers, where gay men get up to all sorts of mischief. Discounts are available during the week depending on the theme. Wear leather on Monday. Bring a buddy on Tuesday. Wear just your underwear on Wednesday. Thursdays give 18 to 29-year-olds admission for just $10.

    See the San Francisco gay saunas guide for details.

    Hotels

    The Castro is the obvious choice if you want to be in the middle of the gay scene. It is also residential and quieter at night than some visitors expect. SoMa puts you close to the leather bars and is more central for getting around. The city is small enough that almost any central neighbourhood works.

    • Executive Hotel Vintage Court — The Executive Hotel Vintage Court San Francisco is a boutique hotel, offering daily excusive wine reception in the lobby for our guests. Located one block from Union Square and one block from Chinatown and two blocks from Financial District and Union Square. The hotel offers high speed WIFI, meeting room and soon to open this fall BAO Down fusion restaurant. visit us at www.executivehotels.net/sanfrancisco or sales salesmgrvc@executivehotels.net
    • Fairmont San Francisco — Grande dame mansion-hotel and restaurant atop Nob Hill   Landmarks with a vista   Perched atop one of San Francisco’s “Seven Hills,” Fairmont San Francisco is a testament to the glory of the City by the Bay. Conveniently located at the only spot in town where all the cable car lines intersect, you can easily ride up those famously steep hills.   Chinatown, shops, bayside   You can hop a cable car to Fisherman’s Wharf
    • Hotel Abri - Union Square — Location. This California boutique hotel occupies a 1906 building located two blocks from Union Square and one half-mile from the Moscone Convention Center. The Powell Street Cable Car Line runs one block from the hotel. ACT and Curran theaters are two blocks away. Three blocks away
    • Hotel Diva — Chic San Francisco hotel with gym and WiFi   Cable car to Chinatown   Fronted by a stylish glass facade, Hotel Diva is a 3-minute walk from the plaza, art galleries, and many shops at Union Square. After a 7-minute walk to Powell Street Station, you can hop a cable car for a short ride to Chinatown.   Waterfront to Coit Tower   It's a 5-minute drive to shopping and dining on piers at the pedestrian-friendly waterfron
    • Hotel Drisco — Key facts Hotel size This hotel has 48 rooms Arriving/leaving   97% of customers were happy with check in   Check-in time 3 PM-5:30 AM Check-out time is noon Required at check in Credit card or cash deposit required Government-issued photo ID required Travelling with others Chil
    • Hotel G San Francisco — Location. 1 block from Union Square and the historic cable cars, this centrally located San Francisco hotel is 3 blocks from BART access and less than a mile (800 meters) from the MOMA, Financial District, and Moscone Center. Hotel Features. Lobby amenities include wireless Internet access. A fitness facility is also available on site 24/7. Guestrooms. Guestrooms at Hotel G San Francisco feature&nb
    • Hotel Zephyr — 361 smoke-free guestrooms 24-hour fitness center Valet parking 24-hour business center 24-hour front desk Climate-controlled air-conditioning Daily housekeeping Arcade/game room Computer station Convenience store ATM/banking services Laundry service Free WiFi
    • Hyatt Regency San Francisco — 4-star hotel with 24-hour fitness center, near Embarcadero   Ferry Building: 4 minutes   Hyatt Regency San Francisco, in the city's downtown, is a 4-minute walk from the waterfront Embarcadero. From there you can explore dozens of gourmet shops at the Ferry Building Marketplace or hop a streetcar for a 15-minute ride to Fisherman's Wharf.   Chinatown and Nob Hill   You're 1 minute from a cable car stop on California

    Events

    San Francisco Pride runs across the last weekend of June. It is one of the oldest Pride events in the United States. The parade goes down Market Street and the festival takes place in Civic Center Plaza. Folsom Street Fair is in late September and draws a massive crowd for the leather and fetish community. Both events book accommodation quickly — plan well ahead.

    Practical notes

    • Cost: San Francisco is expensive. Drinks in bars run $10-16. Budget accordingly.
    • Transport: Uber and Lyft are the practical option for most bar-hopping between neighbourhoods. The Castro and SoMa are about 20 minutes apart by car. Muni runs until around midnight but the network is slower than rideshare for late nights.
    • Safety: The Castro is safe day and night. SoMa is industrial and quieter on streets away from the bars — stay on the main strips. The Tenderloin, which you may pass through, has a rougher character; keep moving and stay aware.
    • Weather: San Francisco is cold for a California city. June and July can have heavy fog. Bring layers even in summer.
    • Timing: Castro bars fill earlier. SoMa is busiest Thursday through Saturday and tends to run later into the night.

FAQ


Where is the gay neighbourhood in San Francisco?



The Castro is the historic gay neighbourhood and still the most concentrated. SoMa (South of Market) is where the leather and circuit scene is based, centred on Folsom Street. Polk Street has a smaller, older gay bar scene. Most visitors split time between the Castro and SoMa.




When is San Francisco Pride?



San Francisco Pride runs the last weekend of June. The parade is on Sunday down Market Street. It is one of the oldest Pride events in the US. Book accommodation months in advance.




What is the Folsom Street Fair?



Folsom Street Fair is a leather and fetish street fair held on the last Sunday of September in SoMa. It is the largest leather event in the world, attracting hundreds of thousands of people to several blocks of Folsom Street. Entry is free.




Is San Francisco safe for gay travellers?



Yes. San Francisco has been a centre of LGBTQ+ life and politics for decades. The Castro is safe at all hours. SoMa is safe on the main bar strips. Be aware in the Tenderloin and some parts of downtown, which have ongoing issues with street homelessness and drug use.




Has the Castro changed?



Yes. The Castro is more residential and less concentrated with bars than it was in its peak years. Several long-running venues have closed and been replaced by other businesses. The community is still there and the neighbourhood is still clearly gay, but the density of bars and the volume of nightlife is lower than it was twenty or thirty years ago.